Capitol Reef National Park

Land of the Sleeping Rainbow

The Fremont Indians had a name for it - Land of the Sleeping Rainbow.   Today, it’s the red rock recreation Mecca known as Capitol Reef National Park. Designated as a national park in 1971 and located along Highway 24 south of I-70, this is a quarter-million Utah acres of heart and soul adventure. What’s your pleasure, a strenuous overnight backpack excursion or a short scenic hike to view a fantastic gallery of pictographs and petroglyphs left centuries ago by the Fremont?   A horseback riding adventure at 11,000 feet on Boulder Mountain, or a quiet afternoon fly-fishing at one of many secret spots?   Maybe your adventurous spirit is soothed by the thrill of a technical slot canyon venture. Capitol Reef country has it all. Once tasted, I guarantee you’ll be back for another helping!

The Olympic motto, Let the Games Begin, was echoing in my head as we approached our destination, picturesque Torrey in southwest Utah, the gateway town to the park. We had a full-throttle weekend adventure planned in fabulous Capitol Reef country. Our first stop was to check in with the local pros, the folks at Capitol Reef Backcountry Adventures, our guides for the next few days. Our two-day agenda consisted of tackling a technical slot canyon on day one and on day two, a horseback adventure, “taming of the horses.” There was an aura of excitement in the air as Cody Clapp and Nate Flint unfolded the topo and briefed us on the upcoming slot canyon adventure. Our group loves new outdoor challenges and we were looking at all the key elements of an awesome escapade; the players, the gear and the guides.

After a good night’s sleep, we reconvened at seven a.m. sharp to begin our canyoneering excursion.   We all checked our gear one last time, making certain we didn’t forget anything. Water? Check.   Snacks? Check. Backcountry survival gear? Check. Looks Good… Let’s Roll!   There was lots of nervous, excited chatter as we drove up the bumpy dirt road to the trailhead. We hefted our packs and started the two-mile hike to the entrance of Cottonwood Gulch.   Although still morning, the day was heating up. “It’s just around the corner”, Cody announced to the group.   Pausing to wipe the sweat from my brow as we rounded the final corner, I was in ahhhh of the stunning vista surrounding us.

As we geared up for our first decent into the canyon, our guides, as all good guide will do, prepped us with words of caution and safety for the drop into the upcoming slot. I watched from the rim as the first two of our group rappelled to the canyon floor below. Although I’ve done this move many times before, there’s always a twinge of anxiety present, particularly the first drop of the day.   But we’re in good hands. Confidence in one’s guide creates confidence in one’s self. Adrenalin was pumping as I backed to the edge and lowered myself into the canyon.   I could sense coolness from the ground below as my feet reached for the muddy canyon bottom. I unhooked myself from the rope, hollered “off rappel” to my belayer above and stepped aside to watch the rest of the team descend like spiders on a web into the colorful slot. “The next one may get a little messy”, the guide announced to the group as we quickly moved to the next rappel. Boy, was he right!   Several of the next challenges were very wet, cold and muddy. Thank God for dry bags!

This full-day adventure did nothing to disappoint even our seasoned group. The beauty of the canyon changed around every corner, down every drop. The vibrant colors of steep canyon walls were pleasing to both the eye of the beholder and to the camera. Several hours later, after many drops, down climbs and scrambles, the canyon widened and Cottonwood Gulch was behind us. As we hiked out the final leg in dry wash to meet up with our shuttle there was an overwhelming feeling of pride and personal accomplishment shared by all.    

As we drove up highway 12 to Boulder Mountain with horse trailer in tow, day two appeared to be a bit of a change of pace from the previous adventure. Visually, the scenery was a radical yet pleasant change from the muddy cool bottoms and towering walls of the slot canyon, to this densely wooded alpine landscape, deep in the heart of the Dixie National Forest. Boulder Mountain rises to over 11,000 feet and is dotted with many alpine lakes well known to local anglers for large brook trout, cutthroat, rainbow and brownies.   

Saddling up for our adventure I was feeling slightly out of my element.   Usually it’s a mountain bike I’m riding, not a horse. Over dinner and brews the prior evening Cody and Nate had raved about the amazing views from Boulder Top. Putting aside my anxiety caused by the day’s mode of transportation, I was looking forward to the experience.   The first few miles were spent trying to get comfortable with my horse, Two-Bit.   A few more miles and we were much more at ease with each other.    I will admit that it was nice to give my weary legs a break from the yesterday’s strenuous hike. The day was beautiful and relaxing and the breathtaking view from the top was no disappointment.   The distance below was a fantastic blend of lush green foliage, crystal blue ponds, and the towering red rock walls of the Waterpocket Fold in Capitol Reef National Park.

As we approached the end of our day, we all thanked our hosts for a truly memorable trip. It’s great having true professionals guide us through their backyard playground. They have a love of adventure and a desire to share it with others. The drive home was filled with endless chatter, with everyone reflecting on favorite moments of the weekend.

We all vowed to return for yet another helping of adventure. The Land of the Sleeping Rainbow proved to be anything but “sleepy.”