A Hike in the Parks

By Ethan Max
Photos by Monique Beeley

Many visitors to Utah come here to hike. And why not? With some of the most varied and scenic landscapes on the planet, Utah is an ideal vacation to those who enjoy putting one foot in front of the other.

For the alpine enthusiast, there are mountain ranges galore. By far, the best knowN and most highly visited is the mighty Wasatch Range that stretches from Naomi Peak near Logan on the north, down past Ben Lomond Peak near Ogden, Mount Olympus and the Salt Lake Twins overlooking the capitol city, Timponogos, the “Sleeping Maiden” out Provo’s back door, to Mount Nebo at the southern-most end of the range. Twelve of the state’s ski resorts are located in the Wasatch.

As famous and impressive as the Wasatch is, there are several other ranges that many seasoned hikers think are its equal. The Uintas, just south of the Utah-Wyoming border, is the only range in the lower forty-eight that runs east to west. King’s Peak in the Uintas, at 13,528 feet is Utah’s highest. The Oquirrh and Stansbury Mountains near Tooele rise up from the west desert. Deseret Peak in the Stansbury’s is a landmark that can be seen for miles and miles.

In southern Utah, the Pine Mountains near St. George and the LaSal Range near Moab offer wonderful, cool summer hiking when lower elevations experience mid-day heat. The mysterious and rarely visited Henry’s near Lake Powell and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area are the home to a wild buffalo herd. The Abajo, or Blue Mountains near Monticello and Blanding, are the gateway to Grand Gulch and Dark Canyon Wilderness, two prime multi-day backpacking favorites.

As popular as the high alpine settings of Utah’s mountain ranges are to many hikers, many more flock to the state’s five national parks for their pastime. And thousands each year plan vacations that include more than a single park. A hiking trip to southeast Utah could include day or multi-day excursions in Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. Devil’s Garden is an easy 4+ hour hike in Arches. This day hike takes the trekker past eight of the better-known arches in the park, including the huge Landscape Arch. The three districts of Canyonlands have so many hikes one could do a different one daily for months without repeating. Horseshoe Canyon, Confluence Overlook, Chesler Peak, Chocolate Drops and The Maze are but a few of the better ones.

Many hikers are making Capitol Reef National Park-Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument-Glen Canyon their choice of a combination. Capitol Reef offers slots, ridges, canyons and wonderful backcountry variety. Upper and Lower Muley Twist Canyons have a taste of it all. The Monument is so vast, so rugged, and yet so spectacular, it must be experienced to be believed. That said, it is advised to begin your experience with a guide. The BLM administers the Monument, and has granted permits to a number of qualified guide services. They can be found in the towns of Kanab, Escalante and Boulder, or ask at any BLM Visitor’s Center.

The granddaddy of all hiking combos, however, is the two southwestern Utah national parks, Zion and Bryce. In Zion, East and West Rim, Observation Point and Angel’s Landing are legends. Zion is slot canyon nirvana, with Pine Creek, The Subway, Mystery, Orderville Canyon and the world famous Zion Narrows. For the more advance canyoneer, Oak Creek, Heaps and Imlay are long, tough and rewarding. Bryce, less than two hours away is an entirely different, yet fascinating landscape. Rock formations called hoodoos are everywhere. Upon observing one for the first time, you’ll understand why. Bryce has many hikes suitable for families.

However, there’s a Utah/Nevada hiking loop that the guidebooks and travel brochures seem to have overlooked. Beginning in Zion for two or three days, pick your pleasure, slots, rims, ridges, wet or dry. Drive to the town of Brian Head (the backcountry North Fork Road past Navajo Lake is scenic, and gets one off the Interstate) for several hikes in and around Cedar Breaks National Monument. Next stop, hop on I-15 for the short drive to Beaver. Headquarter here at one of the many comfortable motels, and plan to spend at least two or three days exploring Beaver’s wonderful, uncrowded, summertime-cool backyard, the Tushar Mountains. Pick up trail maps at the Fishlake National Forest Headquarters and drive up stream-lined Beaver Canyon to the base of the Tushars. Here, Mount Holly, Delano Peak and Mount Belknap rise majestically, dominating the skyline in the Fishlake Forest. Hikes begin in lush aspen and pine forests and wind up and up to the peaks, high above timberline at 12,000 feet.

Depart Beaver and head west on State Highway 21, about 100 miles through basin and range terrain, for the final destination of this hiking vacation, Great Basin National Park, just into Nevada. Wheeler Peak, the cornerstone of the park, looms large in the distance at an elevation of 13,063 feet. The guidebook that can be purchased at the Visitor’s Center lists 19 named and marked hiking trails in the Park and three more in the adjacent Mount Moriah Wilderness Area. Services, lodging and restaurants, although limited, can be found in the town of Baker. Campgrounds in the park, however, are excellent. For a diversion, go on the guided tour of the Lehman Caves.

For a loop hiking vacation that combines two national parks, a national monument and a national forest, give the Zion to Cedar Breaks to Beaver to Great Basin a try. But if its crowds you want, forgetdaboudit!