Gouldings Lodge at Monument Valley Utah

SO MUCH BEAUTY, SO LITTLE TIME

By Bobbie Susaeta
Photos by Monique Beeley

       But now, time appears to be standing still.   We are driving down Highway 163 stunned by the amazing landscape. The only sounds are the wheels against the road and the whispering desert winds. Is it a feeling of peace or desolation? We occasionally stop to enjoy breathtaking views, snapping photos of awesome rock canyons and desert erosion. In the distance, large shadows appear within the mist of the desert sands.   The sun is beginning its descent.   The horizon turns red. As the distant shadows become recognizable, our destination is met.   We are in Monument Valley.

            Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park straddles the Utah/Arizona border in the southeast corner of Utah, about 22 miles south of Mexican Hat and the San Juan River.   The tribal park, within the Navajo Nation, is the largest Native American reservation in the United States. For the one million tourists who visit Monument Valley each year it remains one of the most lasting images of the American West. The park’s most impressive landscape features are the many sandstone formations rising abruptly from the desert floor. Over 1000 feet high, these pinnacles of fragile rock seem to defy gravity.   If you feel a sense of déjà vu, do not be surprised.   This place is one of the most photographed destinations in the world.

           And that’s our mission today.   To photograph this outdoor wonder.   At the gates of the park we pay the entry fee and quickly set up the cameras.   Right in front of the visitor center a breathtaking panoramic view of the Mitten Buttes rises majestically.   This place is spellbinding and we’re looking forward to seeing more.

As darkness begins to fall, it was time to check into the hotel, Goulding’s Lodge, conveniently located across from the park. The hotel is nestled against the red rocks with alternative views of the local landscape. Goulding’s intriguing history includes its crucial role in the development of the reservation.   The lodge boasts 62 rooms, swimming pool, restaurant, gift shop, and even a John Wayne Museum. Upon our check in, we receive tickets for the nightly Earth Spirit Show, an award winning short film by photographer Ric Engenbright.   After the show we retire to our room for a great night’s sleep.

Sunrise, and the coffee is brewing.   We quickly decide that the best way to experience the park is to take the three and a half hour Navajo guided tour offered by the lodge.   Boarding the open top bus with people from around the world, a crisp breeze in the morning air and the anticipation of the international visitors was evident.   Ashley, a native of the reservation, will be our guide this morning.   Our first stop on the tour is at a traditional Navajo residence called a Hogan, a small dome shaped hut made of wooden logs and soil from the desert floor.   An old Navajo woman in traditional dress is sitting inside.   She begins a weaving demonstration.    It is a portrayal of ancient Navajo times and continues to be a staple of Navajo life.  

As we drive into the park, some of the locals were gearing up for another day of commerce on the reservation.   Small plywood stalls line the road outside of the park entrance.   Navajo jewelry, mutton stews, warm fry bread, and coffee are offered along the road.   We make our way onto Valley Drive, the private road leading through the park. In the early morning light, the scenery is magnificent. We first stop at John Ford Point.   A Navajo man rides out to the end of the rock cliff and rears his horse onto his hind legs. This point is named for the renowned western film director that put Monument Valley on the map.   Dozens of films and commercials have been produced here since the first film, “Stagecoach”, in 1939. The horseman rides back and lets us take photos of him and his mustang.   He even lets me hop onto the pony, lending his cowboy hat for the full effect. The whole group gets a great multi-national chuckle out of that one.

As we drive through the park Ashley points out significant rock formations,   “use your imagination,” he says.   “Look to your right and see the sisters watching over you,” referring to Three Sisters monument.   This is sac red land to the Navajo people, the “dineh” as they are refer red to. This land is special.   It exudes a feeling of stillness. Could I be feeling the spirits of this intoxicating place?  

Our tour continues, stopping every 15 to 20 minutes. Passing famous landmarks I swear that I have seen somewhere before.   Was it in my dreams?   Perhaps, as I sit and talk with our guide about life on the reservation.   It seems to be a struggle to maintain the Navajo way of life. Its language, religion and traditions seem to be slowly disappearing.   Still, many of the reservation’s 400,000 inhabitants seem to keep their often-misunderstood ways alive.

As we near the end of the tour, we stop at Eye In The Sky, a wind eroded hole in a sandstone cliff that is millions of years in the making.   I feel like a speck next to this awesome wall of rock.   As I peer through the eye, time seems to stand still.   The clouds seem to stop moving. Was I imagining this?   Behind me our foreign visitors are moving about amazed by the spectacle.   There is nothing like this in their country.   There is nothing like this anywhere!   I reflect.   I must come to this place again.

As we unload at the hotel, we thank our guide for his insight and offer him a gratuity for his excellent service.   Not enough time here, I keep thinking.   There is too much to be seen, too many photographs to take.   We did not get to see the other side of the park called Mystery Valley, which contains more amazing scenery and Anasazi petroglyphs and dwellings.

But we do find the time to do what girls love to do, so we hit the gift shop.   The Goulding Museum and Trading Post was a pleasant surprise.   Something for everyone.   The shop resembles an old local trading post with the goods still on the shelves. The adjoining room contains an amazing display of tribal photos and artifacts.   There is also a great display of movie memorabilia.   I get a feeling that I am missing something.   What could I have not seen or done in these two wonderful days here at Goulding’s?   My grumbling tummy is trying to tell me.   Then it hits me!   I crave a Navajo taco before I head home.   So into the Stagecoach Dining Room we go, and we feast!

A trip to Monument Valley is an experience that everyone should have.   Be aware of the surroundings and, above all, be respectful of this sac red place.   The scenery is mesmerizing and the ‘dineh’ are an enduring and spiritual people. I have only a few other words of advice. Take and extra day to see the entire park, bring at least twice the amount of film that you think you’ll need, and be sure to get some fry bread for the road.

Goulding's Lodge and Tours
P.O. Box 360001, Monument Valley, Utah 84536
or call (435) 727-3231
email: gouldings@gouldings.com
www.gouldings.com